I saw an apartment under renovation. The next day, the pope said he would resign.
By
Masada Siegel
March 5, 2019 7:24 p.m. ET
The Vatican gardens in Rome.
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO
As with many historic places, the Vatican is the site of weighty and ordinary events. I’ve been lucky enough to see both.
On a visit in 2009 I was able to view areas of the Vatican normally off limits to tourists. I brought a couple of friends, including Elena, a Catholic Italian, who always says what she’s thinking but had agreed to try to make a good impression.
Rome’s bustling energy disappeared when we set foot in the manicured gardens that Pope Nicholas III created in 1279. Wild parrots sang amid the vibrant flower beds as we admired an olive tree Israel had donated, a scaled-down replica of Lourdes, and a garden modeled after the one at the Palace of Versailles. Our Swiss Guard guide pointed out the 13th-century Tower of St. John, a private area in the gardens where the pope has often gone for quiet reflection.
In that peaceful moment, Elena shared her thoughts: “This is so beautiful, so serene, I really want to smoke a joint here.”
Mortified, I burst out laughing and whispered: “You didn’t bring one here, did you?”
As with many historic places, the Vatican is the site of weighty and ordinary events. I’ve been lucky enough to see both.
On a visit in 2009 I was able to view areas of the Vatican normally off limits to tourists. I brought a couple of friends, including Elena, a Catholic Italian, who always says what she’s thinking but had agreed to try to make a good impression.
Rome’s bustling energy disappeared when we set foot in the manicured gardens that Pope Nicholas III created in 1279. Wild parrots sang amid the vibrant flower beds as we admired an olive tree Israel had donated, a scaled-down replica of Lourdes, and a garden modeled after the one at the Palace of Versailles. Our Swiss Guard guide pointed out the 13th-century Tower of St. John, a private area in the gardens where the pope has often gone for quiet reflection.
In that peaceful moment, Elena shared her thoughts: “This is so beautiful, so serene, I really want to smoke a joint here.”
Mortified, I burst out laughing and whispered: “You didn’t bring one here, did you?”
She shook her head no, and I looked at the Swiss Guard, hoping he wasn’t offended. “Um,” I said, “is that a normal comment you get when you take, um, dignitaries on tour?”
He smiled: “That’s a first for me.”
All our efforts at making a good impression had gone up in smoke, but our tour continued smoothly from there.
I felt the Vatican’s solemnity when I visited again in 2013. This time I brought an American friend Amy. We toured the Swiss Guards’ armory and even held one of the halberds. On our way there, I noticed a building under construction. The Swiss Guard showing us around explained that some apartments inside were being restored.
I found out for whom the next day when it was announced that Pope Benedict XVI was to become the first pope to resign in almost 600 years.
Two days later, on Ash Wednesday, Pope Benedict presided over a Papal Audience—the first time he addressed the public since his announcement. The energy in the room was palpable; thousands of people were singing and waving flags, eagerly awaiting his arrival.
The Pope entered and the audience roared, but I was speechless, transfixed by the sight of history unfolding before me.
Ms. Siegel is a freelance journalist who covers international affairs, business and travel.
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